Треккинг к Базовому лагерю Канченджанги

कञ्चनजङ्घा (На непальском языке)

Канченджанга — третья по абсолютной высоте вершина планеты — 8586 м над уровнем моря. Расположена на границе Непала и индийского штата Сикким.

В англоязычных источниках название горы встречается, в основном, как Kanchenjunga и Kangchenjunga (в литературе в соотношении 9:1, в Интернете — 3:1). Энциклопедия Бритааника пошла еще дальше: «Kanchenjunga (mountain, Asia)…, also spelled Kangchenjunga or Kinchinjunga, Nepali Kumbhkaran Lungur».

В русских тоже всё неоднозначно.

На наш взгляд, если из общепринятого названия горы удалить букву «д», то «Канченжанга» будет более точно передавать принятое в Непале звучание. Ещё точнее — «Кончонзанга», но тогда бы нас не поняли не только живые читатели, но и Гугл с Яндексом. Поэтому здесь и ниже мы будем писать «Канченджанга».

С 31 марта по 26 апреля 2014 мы планируем провести экспедиционный треккинг к Базовому лагерю Канченжанги с восхождением на Бокта пик. Программа тура ещё в разработке, но уже сейчас можно подать заявку на участие по электронной почте на адрес guide@nepal-nepal.ru.

А пока суд да дело, будем потихоньку переводить статью о Канченджанга треке из книги издательства Lonely Planet "Треккинг в Непальских Гималаях".

Северная Канченджанга

День 1: Басантапур – Чауки

5-6 часов, 580m подъем, 100м спуск

Даже если Вы сядете на автобус Даран – Басантапур (2200) рано утром, то всё равно приедете слишком поздно, чтобы начать трек в этот же день. Разумно остановиться на ночь в Хиле, где нет проблемы найти приличную комнату, в Басантапур отправиться на следующий день. Автономные треккеры могут разбить лагерь на ровной лужайке, до которой примерно 20 минут пешком по тропе в сторону Чауки.

От пыльной дороги тропа поднимается вверх через укутанный мхом рододендроновый лес, слегка прикрывающий великолепный вид на долины рек Арун и Тамур. Начало треккинговой части нашего маршрута совпадает с одним из основных торговых путей районного значения, так что идти мы будем в компании с множеством бхария — с местными носильщиками, большинство из которых скоро свернут на боковую тропу к Чаинпуру.

Первый этап представляет собой уверенный подъем по гребню через несколько небольших населенных пунктов до Доор Пани (2780), после чего тропа ныряет вниз к Тинзуре Педи и снова поднимается к привлекательной деревне Чауки (2680), которая расположилась на аккуратном, поросшем травкой холме с идеальными местами для палаток. Альтернативой служат несколько чайных домиков, предлагающих простую пищу и аскетичные деревянные кровати.

С гребня гряды открывается вид на север в сторону линии снежных вершин, которые будто бы плавают в облаках. В ясный день отсюда можно увидеть Чамланг (7321), Макалу и даже восточное лицо Эвереста. Прежде чем двигаться дальше, необходимо предъявить TIMS карты и треккинговые пермиты на деревенском полицейском посту.

Извините, но далее на английском. Временно :)

Day 2: Chauki to Gupa Pokhari
4–5 hours, 320m ascent, 110m descent

Most of the day’s hike follows Milke Danda ridge, through pretty meadows with views of the snowy mountain ranges that form your final destination. The trail dips up and down for several hours before reaching two small lakes at Lamo Pokhari (2940m). The second half of the day is generally downhill to another collection of mountain pools at Gupa Pokhari (2890m).

This village has a large Tibetan population who fled here after the Chinese invasion of Tibet, but the village teahouses are run-down and gloomy. There is a smal Buddhist shrine on one of the lakes behind the village, draped with colourful chains of prayer flags. Local water supplies are often polluted – be extra diligent about purifying your drinking water.

Day 3: Gupa Pokhari to Nesum
6–7 hours, 310m ascent, 1580m descent

This is a long day, and you will probably only have time to reach Nesum. Follow the trail uphill from the Milke Danda ridge to a second ridge running northeast towards the Tamur Kosi. Enjoy the shade of rhododendrons until Akhar Deorali (3200m), and then follow an undulating path through mixed deciduous forests to Gurja (Gurja Gaon; 2000m), where you’ll find meals and decent rooms at the Sonam Tashi Lama Hotel and a no-name teahouse nearby.

The latter part of the day is a long, at times tedious, descent though cultivated country to the village of Chatrapati, where local teashops can brew you up a refreshing cup of chiya. Finally, drop down a rocky trail to Nesum (1620m) and set up camp for the night.

Day 4: Nesum to Thumma
5–5½ hours, 120m ascent, 980m descent

Below Nesum, the trail continues its descent to the Tamur Kosi, zigzagging down past scattered farms to a suspension bridge over the small Maiwa Khola. You will need to present your TIMS card and permit for another inspection before you cross into Dobhan (640m), about three hours after leaving Nesum.

Dobhan is a small, grubby bazaar town with a health post and an assortment of shops selling soap, needles, toothpaste, sandals, beer, rum and other essentials for mountain living. Many Tibetans live in flimsy bamboo shelters alongside the bazaar, selling tongba and woollen scarves and aprons. There are several unpolished lodges and a good camp site below the village on the riverbank.

The trail to Thumma follows the substantial Tamur Kosi northeast towards Sakathum. There are tracks on both sides of the valley and the trail cuts back and forth over the river on a series of bridges in varying states of repair. Landslides will dictate the easiest path to follow – ask in Dobhan before you set off.

On either side of the river, the trail picks its way through tropical forest passing occasional farmhouses. The trails are badly eroded but after about two hours, you’ll reach a reasonably well-maintained bridge across the Tamur Kosi at Thumma (760m). Most groups camp in the main part of the village on the west bank.

SIDE TRIP: TO TAPLEJUNG/SUKETAR
5 hours, 1200-1700m ascent

At Dobhan, you can cross the Tamur Kosi and make the step, testing ascent to Taplejung or Suketar. This is a useful exit route if any member of your party becomes ill, but there is no particular reason to visit otherwise.

If you are starting the Kanchenjunga North trek at Suketar, you can save time by following a second trail that runs north along the ridge through Pumbur and Linkhim, dropping to meet the Sakathum trail at Chirwa. See p257 for a description of this two-day route.

Day 5: Thumma to Chirwa
6–8 hours, 430m ascent

Follow the east bank of the Tamur as the trail dips and rises along the riverside, skirting rocky fields and landslides to the Chhetri bazaar at Mitlung (880m), where a few wooden teahouses offer the standard mountain menu. Continue along the east bank to Sinwa (980m), which has more teahouses and a police post where your papers may be checked.

The valley narrows and the trail deteriorates as it picks a route between landslides and boulder-strewn alluvial deposits. Descend to a wooden bridge across the Thiwa Khola at 1140m, then wind up and down along the riverbank to Chirwa (1190m), a cheerful bazaar village with a few bhattis and shops and some porter-style lodges. There is a good camp site about 15 minutes past the village.

Day 6: Chirwa to Sakathum
5–5½ hours, 450m ascent

----------------------------------
вставить
----------------------------------

Day 6 follows the Tamur to the confluence with the Ghunsa Khola. Stroll north along the east bank of the river on a rolling trail to the Chhetri village of Tapethok (Taplethok; 1320m). There’s a teashop for a recuperative cuppa and you must present your permit, TIMS and national park receipt at the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area checkpoint. Take the bridge across the Tamur to the west bank and climb high above the river through the small Sherpa village of Lepsung to Lelep, the headquarters of the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area Project – see the boxed text, p260 .

From here, a trail runs north along the Tamur to the village of Walunchung Gola (Olangchunggola; 3220m), which is studded with chortens, stupas and mani walls. This is the largest village of the Walung people, who speak a language derived from Tibetan and share many cultural similarities with the Sherpas. In the past, this has been a restricted area, but some trekking agencies are now offering trips to Walunchung Gola, continuing across the 4820m Nango La pass to rejoin the main trail at Phole near Ghunsa.

To reach Sakathum, drop down to the Tamur and cross on a new suspension bridge, just above the confluence with the Ghunsa Khola. On the east side of the river, you’ll see the village of Helok, on the old trail to Ghunsa. From the suspension bridge, it’s a short walk along the steep and narrow Ghunsa Valley to a riverside camp site near the Tibetan village of Sakathum (1640m).

The village has a helipad and a tiny teashop where you may be able to find some hot tongba. If the weather is clear, you will get your first close-up views of the spire of Jannu (7710m) at the end of the Ghunsa Valley.

Day 7: Sakathum to Amjilosa
4–5 hours, 890m ascent

Start on the narrow trail that winds along the north bank. After a few ups and downs beside the river, you’ll reach some stone steps that scramble high above the river to a waterfall and the tiny hamlet of Ghaiyabari (2150m). Here, the incline becomes gentler, as you follow an exposed and precarious trail above steep grassy slopes to a crest at 2530m. Finally, descend to the Tibetan settlement of Amjilosa (2490m), a loosely defined village with several scattered teahouses and camp sites.

Cardamoms are cultivated along the banks of the Ghunsa Khola and there are several alternative trails along the river. One popular path crosses to the south bank above Sakathum and zigzags back and forth across the river, ending up on the north bank about an hour below Amjilosa.

Day 8: Amjilosa to Gyabla
4–4½ hours, 240m ascent

This relatively short day continues to climb along the Ghunsa Valley. You’ll definitely feel the mountains are getting closer as you climb to a flat ridge and meander through a forest of bamboo, rhododendrons and gnarled brown oaks, passing scattered pastures and waterfalls.

Eventually, you’ll come to a large cascade on the Ghunsa Khola. Here the trail begins a grinding climb to the Sherpa village of Gyabla (2730m), also called Chapla or Kyapra. The village has a good camp site and two teahouses, one with rooms for trekkers. The far side of the valley is densely forested, but the slopes around Gyabla have been denuded by woodcutters.

On some maps, the trail appears to cross the Ghunsa Khola at Gyabla. In fact, Gyabla is on the north bank and you stay on the north bank all the way to the bridge at Ghunsa.

Day 9: Gyabla to Ghunsa
6–7 hours, 680m ascent

The day begins with a steep drop into a ravine, followed by an easy level stage the riverbank. It takes all morning to trek to the yak pastures and potato fields of Phole (3210m). There are several teashops serving local vegetables in the form of dal bhat, and the small wooden gompa contains several old statues and thangkas (cloth paintings) transported here from Tibet.

Above Phole, the valley widens and the trail improves as you trek through fields and larch forests, dipping down to the riverbed before crossing to Ghunsa (3410m). This is the largest village on the trek and Buddhist prayer flags flutter over the rooftops. The name means ‘winter settlement’, and many of the large wood-and-stone buildings are occupied year-round.

Beyond the square chorten at the start of the village are several lodges and a few shops with a fair stock of trekking supplies. A small hydroelectric plant provides electricity, and this is the last place on the trek where you can make phone calls. You must present your TIMS card, trekking permit and national park receipt at the police post and the Kanchenjunga Conservation Area checkpost in the village.

Two trails lead on from Ghunsa. The trail to Pang Pema continues north along the river, while the path to Lapsang La and Mirgin La runs south towards the small Yamatari Khola.

Day 10: Acclimatisation Day at Ghunsa

You have now entered serious mountain country and you must prepare your body for the increase in altitude. An acclimatisation day at Ghunsa is mandatory to reduce the risk of AMS on later stages of the trek.

Ghunsa is an attractive place to kick back for a day – many people use this rest day to wash clothes in the river or stroll up to the fading gompa above the village, but you can also take a rewarding day hike along the trail to Lapsang La, following the Yamatari Khola to a lake at the terminal moraine of the Yamatari Glacier.

Day 11: Ghunsa to Khambachen
5–6 hours, 740m ascent

Heading north from Ghunsa, the trail makes a gradual ascent through a forest of larch and juniper along the east bank of the river. After crossing a sandy, boulderstrewn floodplain, the path crosses a rickety, wood-and-stone bridge to the west side of the river at Rambuk Kharka (3720m). The hillsides become increasingly barren as you climb along the valley.

Continue north past a waterfall then make a short, steep ascent over a very unstable scree slope. Take it slowly here – the poorly defined trail wobbles over loose rocks above a steep slope that plunges down to the river.

Beyond the landslide, the trail climbs gradually then drops down to Khambachen (4150m), a Tibetan outpost of about a dozen shingle-roofed stone houses, wedged into a side valley at the confluence with the Nupchu Khola. There are flat areas for camping on both sides of the stream and a few basic teahouses catering to porters (one has rooms for trekkers).

Day 12: Acclimatisation Day in Khambachen

After a steep ascent on Day 11, you must take another rest day to allow your body to adjust to the elevation. The views from Khambachen are superb – the peaks of Khabur (6332m) and Phole (6645m) and Jannu are lined up at the end of the valley to the east, while the snowcapped ridges beyond the Kanchenjunga Glacier loom dramatically to the north.

For the best views, climb the ridge north of the village – from here, the Khabur, Phole and Jannu peaks rise over the valley like three frozen giants. Alternatively, you could try a bit of nature photography – shaggy yaks graze serenely at the bottom of the valley and herds of wild bharals (blue sheep) roam the boulder fields on the hillsides above the river.

Day 13: Khambachen to Lhonak
4–5 hours, 640m ascent

Above Khambachen, the trail enters a desolate landscape gouged by the icy fingers of glaciers. The path climbs gradually across the scree slopes of recent landslides to another area of pasture at Ramtang (4350m). To stave off the chill winds that curl down the valley, use lip balm and wear your warmest trekking gear.

Above Ramtang, the trail runs along the lateral moraine of the Kanchenjunga Glacier, following the north bank of the river to a wooden bridge at the mouth of the Lhonak Glacier. On the east side of the valley is the crown-shaped ridge of Merra Peak (6344m), not to be confused with the famous Mera Peak east of Lukla or Kongma Tse (Mehra Peak) near Lobuche.

The village of Lhonak (4790m) sits beside a wide, often-dry lakebed, on an open, sandy plain. Water is scarce here but some large boulders provide shelter for tents and groups can use the kitchen facilities in the stone houses at the base of the cliffs.

The views from here are stupendous in every direction. Across the Kanchenjunga Glacier, the door-wedge summit of Chang Himal (Wedge Peak; 6750m) dominates the valley.

Day 14: Lhonak to Pang Pema
3–4 hours, 360m ascent

The end point for the trek is the base camp for ascents to the north face of Kanchenjunga at Pang Pema (5140m). It would be possible to make an arduous day trip from Lhonak, but clouds often obscure the views by mid-morning, so most people set up a high camp on the exposed, sandy plain at Pang Pema. As soon as the sun leaves the valley, the mercury crashes – be prepared for a cold, restless night.

To reach Pang Pema from Lhonak, ascend gradually across the plain and follow the line of the moraine. The most stable trail climbs onto the ridge before dropping to a pair of lonely-looking huts at Pang Pema. If you are lucky, the clouds will part just before sunset for a view of the cascading ridges of the third-largest mountain mass in the world.

Day 15: Pang Pema to Khambachen
6–7 hours, 1000m descent

The views are often crisp and clear in the early morning, so rise at dawn to hike up the ridge north of Pang Pema for the kind of views that inspire religions. From a vantage point about 300m up the slope, you will have a panorama of Kanchenjunga, Taple Shikhar (6510m) and Gimmigela Chuli (The Twins; 7350m). To the east, the iconic summits of Pathibhara Khas (Pyramid Peak; 7168m) and Kirat Chuli (Tent Peak; 7365m) rise like sentries over the border with Sikkim. To the west, the knife-edge ridge of Chang Himal towers above the Kanchenjunga Glacier. As usual, the descent is faster, so you can get back to Khambachen in a single day.

Day 16: Khambachen to Ghunsa
4–4½ hours, 740m descent

Retrace the approach route to Ghunsa, following the description for Day 11 ( p255 ).

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE: KANCHENJUNGA NORTH TO KANCHENJUNGA SOUTH

It is possible to link the Kanchenjunga North and Kanchenjunga South treks by crossing the Mirgin La (4663m) or the Lapsang La (5160m). The two trails split just south of Ghunsa, near the bridge over the Yamatari Khola.

The trail to Mirgin La crosses the stream and climbs the ridge to the south. This is the safest and easiest route but you must still haul yourself over five passes. The trail climbs the Tamo La (3900m), the Sele La (4115m), the Sinion La (4660m), the Mirgin La and finally the Sinelapche La (4724m). Most groups stop for the first night by a hut at Sele La, continuing to meet the Kanchenjunga South trail at Tseram or Yalung Bara the next day.

Crossing the Lapsang La is a much more serious proposition. There is no regular traffic on this route, so you may have to forge a new trail, following a broken line of snow markers. The Lapsang La is frequently blocked by snow between November and May – enquire locally about conditions on the pass before leaving Ghunsa.

To reach the Lapsang La, follow the hillside to the north of the Yamatari Khola, and cross the moraine of the Yamatari Glacier to a camping area at Lumga Sampa (4206m). On day two, make the steep climb over the Lapsang La and drop down to meet the Kanchenjunga South trail at Lapsang (4430m). You should be able to reach Ramche (4620m) by nightfall.

Day 17: Ghunsa to Amjilosa
6–7½ hours, 920m descent

Retrace the approach route back to Amjilosa, described on Day 8 ( p254 ) and Day 9 ( p254).

Day 18: Amjilosa to Chirwa
7–8 hours, 1350m descent

Follow the approach trek back to Sakathum, then meander back along the Tamur Kosi to Chirwa (see Days 6 and 7, p253 ).

Day 19: Chirwa to Linkhim
6–7 hours, 330m ascent

Day 20: Linkhim to Suketar
6–7 hours, 900m ascent, 120m descent

From Linkhim, trek in and out of side canyons through small Limbu villages to Pumbur and a ridge overlooking a vast landslide. The final stage is a three- to four-hour climb through the Sherpa villages of Bung Kulung and Lakchun to the airstrip at Suketar – see Taplejung ( p249 ) for information on facilities in the village, including the best place for a post-trek pot of tongba.